Friday, March 2, 2012

GALAPAGOS I: Arriving and Isla San Cristobal


I still can't believe that we are in the Galapagos! I have dreamed about coming to these islands for so many years, although I actually had no idea what to expect. We spotted land ahoy of San Cristobal just after day break and followed the coastline to Puerto Moreno Baquerizo in the light of the early morning sunshine, it was just spectacular. I can't explain the feeling of having been on the boat for almost a week with no land in sight, and then to be following the drastic coastline of beautiful green land with dramatic rock formations, all while being welcomed by manta rays summersaulting into the air in front of the boat and sea turtles older than myself waving us in . . . it felt unreal.



Our first touch down onto land was San Cristobal island. It is the most eastern of the Galapagos Islands and holds the capital of the Galapagos Island. From the second our anchor was dropped and I jumped into the bright aqua water I was awe struck. The marine life there is just amazing! San Cristobal is known for many species, of which sea lions are one of the most predominant. It is truly incredible, every where you look there are sea lions! Sleeping on boats, covering the beaches, playing in the water, waddling around, sleeping on park benches, it is unbelievable!



We saw so much wildlife on San Cristobal from the sea lions, to marine iguanas, to Blue footed boobies perched on rocks and frigget birds dancing over head with their scissor legs. We snorkled Kicker Rock with sea turtles and white tip SHARKS! Swam with manta rays. Hiked with finches. The wildlife is more abundant than anywhere I have ever been, but the aspect that will truly fascinate you, is how you are interacting and observing these animals in their own natural habitats and completely unaffected by humans. They are so protected that they are not afraid of humans in the least, it is really beautiful! You will snorkel with baby sea lions playing with you and walk down the street with iguanas walking side by side with you, hardly noticing that you are there. It is the only place that I have ever felt humans and animals are co-habitating in a truly respectful and beautiful way.



We had a few really special adventures on San Cristobal which had me feeling like I was really traveling again, SUCH a great feeling! One of the highlights was a tour we did with some local taxi drivers around the island. We trekked the volcanoe with these guys in pouring rain, laughing so hard as we slipped all over the mud looking out to amazing vistas of the island. They then took us to a lunch spot that is only open on Sundays and in the home of a local family that has been cooking for the local families on Sundays for almost 30 years. There were 14 of us gringos all crowded around tables of locals with Dora cooking us up her traditional dishes and so proud that we were there. By the end of the meal, Dora was hugging us and asking us to come back and see the garden. At that point I really felt like I was connecting with these people of the beautiful islands and that travel bug zinged me like it has so many times ;)



One of my most beautiful days on San Cristobal was when I took a day for myself and trekked around the Darwin Interpretation Center. It is a beautiful center perched on top of one of the sea side hills overlooking town and the coastline. Donated by the Spanish government, it is has pathes lined by beautiful spanish tiles, complemented by the bright green jungle overlaying and clear turqouise waters of the bay, it is truly beautiful. The center is really well done, with a 2 main buildings filled with exibits and history of the Galapagos and Darwin. Although these achilpelago islands maybe small, they have some large history they are carrying, pretty fascinating! Some top facts about the Galapagos: the islands are 97% National Park land, one of the islands (Isabella) is home to the 2nd largest active volcano in the world, total population of all the islands is about 25,000 inhabitants. 



From the main buildings, there are paths that meander and criss cross up the hill and along coast, leading to different vistas and points of the National Park there. I took some time to snorkel in a small little reef inlet. With the turquoise water and sea lions swimming around, I could resist. The highest point of the Darwin Interpretation Center is frigget hill. I trekked up to this point, and you truly feel like you are on top of the world, with friggets scissoring their legs right above your head and finches singing to you. I was beyond grateful to be there.





We were also able to catch the Galapagos Independence celebration and Carnival on San Cristobal. Although it didn't quite compare to Nina's spectacle, it was quite the show! These islanders love their fireworks, and there doesn't seem to be much regulations on them. Ha. The main stage in town was filled with music performers until 6am, with everyone in town crowded around with beers and salsa dancing until early in the morning. They are also huge fans of this soap-in-a-can spray. I haven't seen anything like it, but was anilliated with it a few times throughout the night, we well as face paint smeared across my face by local kids. Their humor is light hearted and it was so refreshing to be surrounded by again. I think I may have to bring this soap-in-a-can back to the states . . . although I have a feeling that random strangers on the street in the US would not have the same appreciation as these easy going islanders.





All in all we spent about a week in San Cristobal making friends with the sea lions and feeling like it was home after those 6 days! It is just one of those towns. Our departure to Isla Floreans was coupled with Friz's departure back to the States. Fritz was such a wonderful help to get SV Zoe going again and from this point on, the adventure continues!  


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